Technically, this piece shouldn't be in this blog because it's not sewn, but since it's my blog, I'm putting it here anyway. The piece was inspired by the Elizabethan lace collars called "ruffs" that you see in paintings from the era. I made a piece called Ruff One a long time ago, and I always meant for it to be one of a series, but then never got around to making any others. So finally, with the creating of this piece, I have Ruff Two!
Those lace collars have starched lace arranged into a compressed sine curve shape, creating "pockets" all around the outer edge of the collar. They even had bullet shaped irons that they used to insert into the pocket in order to iron out any wrinkles.
To weave such a thing is pretty straightforward. I created a double weave to create the pockets at the edges, and put a bit of leno lace on the top side of every other pocket. In addition I incorporated a dense area around the neck with a ruffle. The warp was a sport weight white wool, the dense area was 30 gage copper wire, and the weft was all copper. Once off the loom, I added heaver copper wire "springs" to hold the pockets open as I envisioned that they should be. These springs are just pieces of copper wire folded into a "V" and inserted into each pocket.
I also wove some pure copper tabby ribbons before and after the wool weaving, and these ribbons of copper form the part that you see running down the center front.